Mountain enthusiasts have finally returned to the upper slopes following the long-awaited re-opening of Cairngorm's funicular railway.
There is something for everyone on Cairngorm: skip ahead to our round-up of beginner skiing, guide-led mountaineering and other ways to enjoy winter on the mountain.
Edinburgh and the unmentionable trams. The “bridge to nowhere” in Germany. Boston’s Big Dig. You would be forgiven for wondering if the Cairngorm Mountain Railway, the service of which was suspended in 2018 due to structural issues, had fallen into the same category of infrastructural folly.
But, behold: scenes from Glenmore this past weekend depicted a snow-covered mountain and a fully-functional funicular depositing happy skiers and boarders to the top station at 1,097 metres (3,599 feet). Here, they were among the first to enjoy the newly-renovated Ptarmigan Lodge, with open-concept gin bar, log fire and the panoramic views that have for the past four years been the sole preserve of those intrepid enough to hike up on foot.
By all accounts they also enjoyed their descent, with a respectable cover of wet snow (hey, at least it’s not ice?!) and eight lifts open in addition to the railway. This is not to mention the back country and its possibilities for ski touring, a pursuit that gained in unprecedented popularity when COVID brought all transit up the mountain to a standstill.
Skiing or snowboarding Cairngorm: a quickstart guide
If you’re visiting the area, you might be wondering where to start. Whether or not you can shred with your eyes closed, or your interests align more with the pretty views and aforementioned gin bar (!), there is something for everyone on Cairngorm Mountain — especially now that the railway is back in business.
For beginners and improving skiers who want an entirely ‘done for you’ day or more up the hill, I highly recommend Free Ski. As the only BASI-accredited school operating at the resort, I always felt confident sending my 6-year-old out with them for his weekly lessons. For visitors throughout the season they have many convenient options including 2- and 4-hour private group lessons, which include a lift pass valid for the remainder of the scheduled day.
Free Ski also offers advanced lessons and 1:1 tuition, as well as ski hire — based out of the Badaguish Outdoor Center — even for those not taking their lessons. Who doesn’t love travelling light and leaving the clobber at home?!
Jerry Craig, owner of the family-run company, shared his delight at the reopening of the funicular and reflected on how its suspension made it much harder to enjoy what the mountain had to offer.
‘Having worked on and off the mountain for 30 years I have seen Cairngorm in many guises, with the chairlifts in the early years right through to the building of the first train. When it was taken out of service it was a huge blow to us as a ski school, but also to those wanting to make the most of skiing on Cairngorm.’ —Jerry Craig, Free Ski
If snowfall on the lower slopes was sufficient, Craig and his team showed their clients how to make the best of a small beginners’ area at the bottom of the mountain. But climate change and milder weather — often with February temperatures in the double digits — melted the lower slopes, with the only useable snow much further up the mountain.
When the funicular was out of action, Craig could only look up and lament what might have been. But with service resuming last week, the possibilities of the whole mountain have opened up once more — including much longer pistes at higher altitudes for beginners and improvers. A total of 12 kilometres were accessible this past weekend.
Is Craig pleased? ’Long may it run!’ A little, perhaps.
For those who are serious about snow
Craig’s excitement is shared by those who have booked onto one of several courses run by Glenmore Lodge, another local vendor with an emphasis on year-round adventuring in the Cairngorms National Park. Their offerings include back country and ski touring for the competent piste skier, as well as teaching qualifications and avalanche awareness. They also provide education in winter mountain skills other than skiing, including climbing, mountaineering and navigation.
Courses at Glenmore Lodge often span multiple days and encompass an intensive curriculum led by world-class guides such as Alex Parmenter. 'They aren’t the biggest mountains in the world,' he reflects on the Cairngorm range that comprises his office. 'But they are some of the punchiest.'
'They aren’t the biggest mountains in the world ... but they are some of the punchiest.' —Alex Parmenter, Glenmore Lodge
The mountain temperament Parmenter describes is beautifully captured in a video diary produced by Rab Equipment — a wonderful watch to whet your appetite for any upcoming winter visit to Cairngorm Mountain. If nothing else, the footage they captured — of sudden squalls and breathtaking drop-offs — shows how much more you can enjoy this utterly wild alpine terrain with an experienced guide and the appropriate gear. There’s no such thing as bad weather, we are known to say in this part of Scotland. Only bad clothing choices!
Sledging, skating and spectacular views (with a little less effort)
What about if you love snow, but prefer to enjoy it in a somewhat more … sedentary fashion? A little less punch, perhaps? Fear not: the funicular is your friend. Ascend to the top with an adult return ticket for £22, where you can order that cocktail or hot cocoa and watch others feel the windburn on their faces. To each, their own. (But make mine a double!)
Aside from downhill skiing or snowboarding at the Cairngorm resort, the area has a range of other cold weather activities. A community ice rink is open 7 days a week in Aviemore, with a large marquee for rain-or-shine Lutzes and ‘learn to skate’ sessions on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
Sledging is not permitted anywhere within the Cairngorm Mountain ski area boundary. However, a popular spot is the hill behind the Hayfield carpark in Glenmore. (It’s a long gentle slope where a lot of locals learn to ski, too!) Of course, every town or village of Strathspey has a go-to toboggan slope. In Nethy Bridge, it used to be the golf course — no longer permitted under the watchful eye of the meticulous new greenskeeper, Matthew, who has transformed the greens into some of the fastest around — but right in front of Balnagowan Cottage is the next best thing: a short but steep descent with valley views and an echo that seems to return your ecstatic squeals all the way from the River Spey.
(Note: unlike other resorts, tubing at Cairngorm is not on snow and only opens when the weather is mild.)
And, of course, there are so very many cosy pubs and cafes where you can warm up after a day of winter play. Our local, of course, is the Nethy House: a mere 300 yards downhill by sledge, ski or inelegant slide ... to each, their own!
Balnagowan Cottage benefits from low/mid-season rates and weekly discounts during the ski season, which ends on 16 April 2023. Planning your first foray into Scottish snow? Stay up to date with the conditions on Cairngorm here. And don't hesitate to reach out if we can help you plan your visit!
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